Three letters were by John Bishop Putnam (1849-1915), son of the American publisher George Palmer Putnam (1814-1872), in Japan to his family: "Family Letters from Japan," Putnam's Magazine 1(May1868): 631-35; "A New Yorker in Japan," Putnam's Magazine 1 (June 1868): 758-62; and "A Visit to Yedo," Putnam's Magazine 2 (July 1868): 103-6.
"A New Yorker in Japan," Putnam's Magazine 1 (June 1868): 758-62.
YOKOHAMA, February 1 , 1868.
Most of the houses in Yokohama are of a single story , and are built of a light framework of wood, covered with small square slate, neatly joined by ridges of white mortar ; the roofs are covered with tile, also cemented by mortar ; thus giving to the town a sort of checkered appearance that from a distance is very neat. Since the fire of 1866 , which swept away a large portion of the foreign settlement, quite a number of houses have been erected of a light-green stone, almost equal to marble in texture - dear-bought experience teaching merchants that flames lick up tile-buildings as if they were tinder.
Besides these there are a number of godwons built of mud, which are said to stand any amount of fire without injury; indeed, the Japanese merchants consign their valuables to a mud godown, feeling as much confidence in it as we should in a Herring safe.
The native town, although containing but few fine buildings, is by far the most interesting place to a stranger, Entering "Cuio-street," the Broadway of the town, I was first struck by the extreme neatness and cleanliness of every thing. Each street is swept scrupulously clean daily, and there is scarcely a city in the world whose corporation could not learn a lesson from the towns and villages of Japan on this point. On each side of this street, and extending for half a mile, are the wonderful "Curio stores." The first of these, appearing to have full confidence in the pockets of its American customers, has a sign over the entrance on which, in large letters, we read, "The 4th of July Store." On the opposite aide of the street is the great bronze establishment, containing some splendid samples of Japaneae art. Although their instruments for this work are of the rudest description, they succeed in turning out some beautiful articles; indeed, their large bronze vases are wonderful. Standing about five feet high, they are covered with the most intricate and delicate work of vines and leaves, birds and snakes. Next door we found some beautiful tortoise-shell ware, card-baskets made from which are exceedingly rich; here also was a large assortment of ivory goods, from which every variety of article is manufactured.
Small ivory cabinets made from a solid block of tusk, without a joint of any description; charms, studs, and sleeve-buttons; balls of ivory on which the most exquisite miniature landscapes are cut; and boxes and goblets beautifully unlaid with minute, life-like representations of flies and bright-colored insects. Besides these articles, there is the much-famed lacquer ware, which has greatly deteriorated in quality the last few years, owing partly to the increased demand, but principally to the fact that all but the initiated can be humbugged with the inferior article. There are but one or two men in the town who keep really fine specimens of lacquer ware, and these can only be bought at what appeared to me an alarming figure. Indeed, those who "go shopping" with the idea that, because they are in Japan, they can make unlimited purchases without lightening their purse, will find themselves grievously disappointed. I found that, if we paid the prices asked by some of the dealers, we should soon discover that Yokohama is the dearest place in the world to buy Japanese articles. The only way to deal witht he fellows to advantage, is to take plenty of time for the operation, and to have no conscientious scruples about "Jewing."
On entering one of the stores, we are saluted by the proprietors, who are almost invariably found seated on the floor in the squatting posture of Eastern nations, with a profound bow, and "oh hayo" (good-morning), to whch we reply with all politeness. Taking up a small ivory cabinet, I asked, "How muchee?" "One hundred fifty ichiboos" (fifty dollars). The cabinet is immdiately dropped as if it had been hot, and we starte to leave the shop, when the proprietor calls our attention to the fact that it is "numb' one" (the best), and asks us to "makee talkee how muchee give." "Seventy-five ichiboos." He considers this an excellent joke, and says, "Make talkee true pricee." A gentleman who is with me now offers one hundred ichiboos, and on his refusing to accept this, we leave the establishment; but before we have gone far we are recalled, and our terms accepted. This is the modus operandi for the majority of purchases, but there are one or two stores in the (p. 758) town, containing some of the finest specimens, on which, with no amount of bargaining, can one obtain the alightest reduction. They persistently call your attention to the placard over the door, which informs all whom it may concern that this is a "One-Price Store;" and, indeed, they are no independent about disposing of their goods, that a person feels as though he were treated with peculiar consideration in being allowed to make any pruchases whatever.
At the end of Curio-street is the large and aristocratic bookstore of Yokohama, in which all the choice literature of the day can br found. Here are military books and naval books, illustrated works on London and Paris, and beautiful maps of the island and cities of Japan, which are said to be very accurate. [hoito: what is the possible name of the bookstore???] While the stores of Curio-street are almost entirely devoted to goods of Japanese manufacture for export, those of its next-door neighbor, "Beuten Doree," are filled with imported aritcles of every description for home use. Tools, hardware, lamps, drygoods, crockery, looking-glasses, photographic apparatus and materials, are some of the numerous articles sold in these variety stores. Strange though it may seems, the Japs have made considerable progress in photography, and really manage to turn out some very fair pictures.
On this street are a number of the celebrated bath-houses, where men and women and children, old and young, rich and poor, meet on the common ground of cleanliness, and the bright and contented faces of the Japs as they come from these establishments make one fully believe that "cleanliness is next to godliness."
I was so fortunate as to be in Yokohama during the Japanese New-Year holidays, which begin the latter part of January and continue about ten days, during which time scarcely any business is transacted, as every one, from the lowest coolie to the highest official, considers that he has no more important duty on hand than that of enjoying himself, and accordingly goes to work with a will to accomplish this. A row of bamboo canes, fifteen or twenty feet high, is put up before each door, while from the side of the house a fringe of neatly-braid rice-straw is suspended, in the centre of which is a shield made of a boiled lobster surrounded with oranges and rice-straw as an offering to the god of "chow-chow." Then the calling commences. The gentry, dressed to kill, and preceded by a servant bearing presents and cards, appear to pay their respects at each house.
It is a curious sight to witness the meeting of two of these gay cavaliers. With hands on their knees, they bow almost to the ground, and in this position all the compliments of the season pass between them. They then raise their heads, but, appearing to be alarminged lest they have not shown each other sufficient respect, they "bob" once more, and this is often kept up for a minute or two; the same operation being repeated on parting.
The green decorations, the bright straw-work, and the gala costumes of the people, all combine to give to the town a gay appearance; but what struck me particularly was the perfect good humor and happiness of every body. Singing, masquerading, and drinking "saki" until the faces of the men become the color of a beet, one sees no quarreling, fighting, or disturbance of any kind. All seem equally bent on enjoying themselves, and, to judge from the result, not without success. The 26th of January, their New-Year, capped the climax of excitement, as on this day the grand parade and review of the Fire Department came off.
In everytown there are a number of organized fire companies, Yokohama having twelve or fifteen, each provided with the following instruments: first, a small wooden engine about two feet square, which is carried on the shoulders of two of the company; a circular paper-charm about two feet in diameter, gaudily colored, and fastened at the top of a long pole; and a bamboo ladder. Besides which, each member is provided with a pole with an iron hook fastened at the end of it, for tearing down the buildings surrounding the fire. On the bells striking the alarm, the different companies start on a full run for the scene of action, keeping up at the same time such a yelling and screaming as would put to the blush even the old Fire Department of New York. Arriving at the fire, the charm-bearer, entirely enveloped in an inflammable coat, takes up his position on one of the neighboring buildings, and, keeping his charm in constant motion, has full confidence that the flames will expire before such a terrible instrument.
Believing that "prevention is better than cure," the firemen do not attempt to throw water on the burning building, but, instead, keep up a steady stream on their leader, to "keep him cool," while a few of their number attack the nearest building with their pikes; but before they have got it half down, they are driven off, the fire usually following (p. 759) them entirely through the town in this way. Indeed, a fire seldom breaks out in any of their towns, but what it leaves it in ashes in a few hours. The inspection of the companies concluded with the following performance: each company, in passing before the Governor's house, who as standing on the balcony surrounded by his officials, halted, and having rested one end of their ladder on the ground, they clustered around it, and a dozen of them thrusting their pikes into it about eight feet from the ground, they braced themselves, and in this way held it firmly. One of their number, dressed in tight-clothes, now mounted to the top, and, at the height of twenty-five feet, went through some of the most surprising evolutions imaginable - standing on his head, turning himself inside out, and making a sudden jump from the ladder it seemed as if nothing could save him from a fearful fall, and then being jerked back with tremendous force by a cord which he had fastened to his leg. Each member went through these various manoeuvres with slight variations, the performance being kept up all the afternoon.
On the morning January 27th, I was awakened by a tremendous yelling and shouting,
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[to be continued]
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