Tuesday, 12 February 2019

The Oriental Cook Book 西法食譜

Mrs. W. S. Emens comp. The Oriental Cook Book: A Guide to Marketing and Cooking (Shanghai: American Presbyterian Mission Press, 1889. A Chinese edition, entitled 西法食譜 bound in Chinese style was published by APMP simultaneously. Shanghai: Kelly & Walsh, 1898 2nd ed., 1905 3rd ed.). 


Source: HathiTrust. Signed by James Dyer Ball, who published The English-Chinese Cookery Book, containing 200 receipts in English and Chinese 西國品味求真 (Hong Kong: Kelly & Walsh, 1890). To be discussed.

The following table of content is from 1898 edition:


Marketing 上的東西

Groceries 論雜貨
Care of Food 論小心保守食物
Soups  論湯
Fish 論煮魚的法則
Meats 論煮肉的法則
Poultry and Game 論煑雞類與野味
Entrée 論小炒
Dressings for Salads 論撒勒突醬
Salads 論撒勒突
Meat and Fish Sauces 論魚與肉的汁
Force-meat and Garnishes 論做肉粉與裝花的法則
Vegetables 論煑蔬菜的法則
Pies 論派愛
Puddings 論樸定
Sauces for Puddings 論樸定的掃司
Dessert 論小吃
Ice Cream 論氷及立
Water Ices 論氷凍汁
Cakes 論糕
Icing for Cakes 論挨愛星的做法
Short Cake 論[手裊]克開脫
Dumplings 論屯潑令
Muffins, Griddle Cakes, Fritters and Pancakes 論馬非音、煎餅、弗立偷、薄餅
Breakfast and Tea 論早點與晚點
Economical Dishes 論省儉的東西
Bread 論饅頭
Preserving 論糖食
Pickles and Ketchup 論酸果與醬
For the Sick 論病人吃的東西
Drinks 論喝的東西
How to do Various Things 論做雜物的法則
Bills of Fare 論菜單
Glossary 論註解

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A few scholars endeavoured to discuss the 1889 Chinese edition but were unable to obtain a copy of the English-and-Chinese versions in hand leaving them with unanswered questions and untenable conclusions.


The preface to the first edition tells us the sources as follows:

The following recipes have been selected mainly from Miss Parloa's New Cook Book. Selections from other standard cook books and recipes from friends have also been used. The translator has endeavored to adapt the book to local requirements; but the ability to translate from English in Chinese led her to undertake the task, rather than experience in cookery.

The cook book is intended to not only English readers but also Chinese cooks to expatriates. It reads:

The Chinese text will be readily understood by a native cook of average intelligence. Names of articles for which there is no equivalent in Chinese, and of certain dishes are designated by characters which sound like the French or English terms.

She goes on by providing a few examples. Peh-teh-yeu (白塔油) for butter , Ka-lang-ts (加蘭子) for currants. So a glossary is added for easy reference. 


The preface was not signed. Had a reader of the North-China Daily News browsed the "new and standard books" advertisements of Kelly & Walsh, booksellers and publishers, in late January and early February of 1890, the reader will known that it was compiled by Mrs. W. S. Emens. The price of the book was $3. It was also being sold in London by Trübner for 15s (Trübner's Record, A journal devoted to the literature of the east, third series, vol. 2, no. 1, May 1890, p. 64).


According to Woman's work for woman (vol. 10, no. 12, December 1895), Mrs. W. S. Emens (Mr. W. S. Emens being U.S. Vice Consul-General, Interpreter, and Assessor at Mixed Court, Shanghai) was the eldest daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Farnham of Shanghai and passed away in Chefoo. Although she was not an appointed missionary, it reads, "living in China and well versed in the Chinese tongue, she was in a position to be very useful among the people" (p. 322).

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We learn from the publishers’ preface that this invaluable work has been out of print for nearly two years, and Messrs. Kelly and Walsh, Ld., will undoubtedly earn the gratitude of hundreds of housewives by sending out a second edition of it. It comes in a handsome dress of yellow and black, and is very well and clearly printed. The recipes it contains have stood the test of years, and if any Chinese cook cannot understand them, it is not the fault of the translator, but of the cook’s ignorance. No lady who keeps house in China can afford to be without this book, which has been a guide, philosopher, and friend to hundreds, and will continue its services to thousands more.

(source: NCH, May 23, 1898, p. 882)

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